Bra-making Class 1, Part 2, By Pauline from Australia


 
Start

Class 1:

Part 1

Class 2:

Part 1

Class 3:

Part 1

Find Your Size

Using a

Part 2

Fitting

Part 2

Copying one

Part 2

Pattern List

pattern

Part 3

adjustments

Part 3

that fits

Part 3

Supplies

 

Part 4

 

Part 4


 
Part 4

Powernet

 

Part 5

 

Part 5

Examples


Please read the instructions with the pattern and print out and read mine BEFORE you start!!!

Tracing Pattern

Trace out pattern pieces to whatever you like to use. Mark stretch and grain line directions and notches. There are only 4 basic pieces to the pattern.

I don't use the cup binding in the pattern. Instead I use the underwire channeling (casing), as I find it sits on the body better. I also do not use the bra strap pattern, as I prefer an elastic strap.

When you lay out your pattern pieces, use the instructions with the pattern, but make sure you have the stretch and grain lines going the right way. I'm doing mine in a cotton Lycra, so will put a stabilizer fabric (sheer nylon) into the center T piece and lower cups, as the fabric offers little support and my boobs would end up on my waist and under my arms! If you want to line the cups or T piece, cut out lining fabric at the same time as the bra fabric by laying the pieces together, wrong sides together and stitch on the edge, then treat as one piece. Same goes for lace and sheer. If you want to pad the lower cup, sandwich the padding between fabric and lining, and edge stitch to hold the layers together. The alternatives are endless.

Laying Out Pattern

If you are not using power net for the T piece, you need to stabilize it if the fabric is very stretchy. Use your iron-on webbing and lining, and fuse the layers together. This can be done with the cup linings as well.

I use a fading marking pen to mark all my notches, but I wait to mark until just before I'm going to use the piece!

Have a NEW STRETCH needle, a full bobbin of good quality thread. A ball-point needle will do, if you don't have the stretch on hand, but the stretch is better.

Following your instructions, pin cups wrong sides together, matching notches. You will use 1/4" seams (6mm) throughout. Straight stitch together. I use length 2.5 on my machine and have used contrasting thread so you can see it more easily in these examples.

Center Cup Seam

If you have one breast larger than the other, this is the time you can do a rough check on the cups. Place stitched cup over the breast and tape in place, hold the breast in position, pinch out excess, and pin very carefully. Re-stitch the seam. Do this before topstitching!

Use a triple zigzag or serpentine stitch to sew the cup seams, as per instruction sheet. I use triple zigzag with a setting of W 7.0 L 1.5. Trim this seam.

Keep going to the next step, Class 1, Part 3!




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