Bra-making Class 1, Part 2, By Pauline from Australia
Please read the instructions with the pattern and print out and read mine BEFORE you start!!!
I don't use the cup binding in the pattern. Instead I use the underwire channeling (casing), as I find it sits on the body better. I also do not use the bra strap pattern, as I prefer an elastic strap.
When you lay out your pattern pieces, use the instructions with the pattern, but make sure you have the stretch and grain lines going the right way. I'm doing mine in a cotton Lycra, so will put a stabilizer fabric (sheer nylon) into the center T piece and lower cups, as the fabric offers little support and my boobs would end up on my waist and under my arms! If you want to line the cups or T piece, cut out lining fabric at the same time as the bra fabric by laying the pieces together, wrong sides together and stitch on the edge, then treat as one piece. Same goes for lace and sheer. If you want to pad the lower cup, sandwich the padding between fabric and lining, and edge stitch to hold the layers together. The alternatives are endless.
I use a fading marking pen to mark all my notches, but I wait to mark until just before I'm going to use the piece!
Have a NEW STRETCH needle, a full bobbin of good quality thread. A ball-point needle will do, if you don't have the stretch on hand, but the stretch is better.
Following your instructions, pin cups wrong sides together, matching notches. You will use 1/4" seams (6mm) throughout. Straight stitch together. I use length 2.5 on my machine and have used contrasting thread so you can see it more easily in these examples.
Use a triple zigzag or serpentine stitch to sew the cup seams, as per instruction sheet. I use triple zigzag with a setting of W 7.0 L 1.5. Trim this seam.
Keep going to the next step, Class 1, Part 3!