Bra-making Class 1, Part 4, By Pauline from Australia
Nearly home now!
Sew side seams (step 5 on pattern instruction sheet). I put the underwire casing over this seam as well, finishing the casing just under 1/4" from each end. Now, if you like, you can put some light boning in here for some support, which helps when there are wires and when you want to stop the bra from rolling up!
TIP: put scotch tape (cellotape) on the end of the boning to help it slide through, and cut it to a rounded end.
For 2374, follow pattern instructions for placement of shoulder straps.
If your bra straps tend to fall off the shoulder all the time, take the placement more to the midline. This stops them from falling down!
Do elastic as per steps 6 and 7 on pattern instruction sheet.
I mark the center of my elastic to CF seam to give even placement of elastic on each side. Make sure wires are out of the way when stitching over the casing (ask me how I know this!). Use a zigzag W 1.5 L 2.0 for first stitching, then triple zigzag for the 2nd stitching.
I put most of my "stretch " through the under arm section so it sits snugly.
On a shaped strap, the strap is attached BEFORE the elastics as the elastics extend up and onto the straps. To attach these to look professional, place RIGHT side of strap to WRONG side of cup, straight stitch in place with a .5cm (between 1/8” and ¼”) seam, then lay the strap out flat, and sew across from the right side- the raw edge of the strap end will be enclosed. Then apply the elastics in one continuous seam from cup to end of strap -usually there is a nice lace edge on one side of the strap. But if you want elastic on both sides, that’s OK.
For step 8 on pattern instruction sheet, I sew a ring here and bar tack it in place (2 rows of little straight stitches and very tiny zigzag stitches over the top).
Then I do step 9 per pattern instruction sheet, but a little differently: I like all elastic straps on this pattern so I cut 2 pieces of bra strap elastic 50cm long (about 19.5''). You'll need to adjust up or down to your personal measurement and preferences.
Now do as pattern says, but before you stitch it on, check that it matches your bra back width (step 11 on sheet). You don't want a 2-1/2-hook closure. In the above picture, you can see that I need to move strap elastic to the left for a perfect 2 hook closure or out (to the right) if I want a 3-hook closure.
Pin strap elastic in place and stitch. I do a reverse stitch here on the top of the elastic, as it's the only place where something is not sewn over it or topstitched.
I use a zipper foot to attach the hook tape, and I move the needle position to one side. Then I zigzag around the tape. I find the regular foot is too awkward to handle this task.
Now we're nearly finished, but the next step is the trickiest part of all - putting elastic through slide and ring to make it adjustable.
On to the next session, Class 1, Part 5!