Bra-making Class 2, Part 1, By Pauline from Australia

Start	Class 1:	Part 1	Class 2:	Part 1	Class 3:	Part 1
Find Your Size	Using a	Part 2	Fitting	Part 2	Copying one	Part 2
Pattern List	pattern	Part 3	adjustments	Part 3	that fits	Part 3
Supplies		Part 4		Part 4	Contact the instructor	Part 4
Powernet		Part 5		Part 5	Contact the instructor	Examples

In this session I'm dealing with common fitting problems and how to fix them. Annie e-mailed me and we are going to use her measurements for the beginning of the class. Annie's measurements are:

High bust	38
Under bust	33.5
Full bust	43

With these measurements she should be a 38DD. This does not fit, and in fact is way too small. So I asked for some more measurements:

Edge of breast around back	23.5
Same around front	13 - No, they don't add up
Fullness of breast	about 11 in the best fitting bra available
Depth of u shape	13 on RTW (not big enough), 14'' on what looks right

Now taking these measurements and a selection of patterns, I measured all the pattern pieces flat. I use a piece of string to go around the curves! I think Annie is closer in cup measurements to a 42D.

One picture shows the front pinned to back pattern piece with the wire placed to see if it fits OK- the underwire measures about 14.5 - 14.75''


Tracing		Traced Pattern

At this stage make up the 2 cup pieces and use tape to tape the cup over the breast to give an idea of whether it is going to fit. This is not 100% accurate, but it does give an idea where to adjust.

The back may well be too large for Annie, so reduce back length by reducing width in the middle of the bra back.

Reducing back band

What else can we fix? Go to the next fitting lesson, Class 2, Part 2!