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Bra-making
Class 2, Part 1, By Pauline from Australia
In this session I'm dealing with
common fitting problems and how to fix them. Annie e-mailed me and we are going
to use her measurements for the beginning of the class. Annie's measurements
are:
High bust
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38
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Under bust
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33.5
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Full bust
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43
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With these measurements she should
be a 38DD. This does not fit, and in fact is way too small. So I asked for some
more measurements:
Edge of breast around back
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23.5
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Same around front
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13 - No, they don't add up
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Fullness of breast
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about 11 in the best fitting bra available
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Depth of u shape
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13 on RTW (not big enough), 14'' on what looks right
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Now taking these measurements and
a selection of patterns, I measured all the pattern pieces flat. I use a piece
of string to go around the curves! I think Annie is closer in cup measurements
to a 42D.
One picture shows the front pinned
to back pattern piece with the wire placed to see if it fits OK- the underwire
measures about 14.5 - 14.75''
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Tracing
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| Traced Pattern |
At this stage make up the 2 cup pieces
and use tape to tape the cup over the breast to give an idea of whether it is
going to fit. This is not 100% accurate, but it does give an idea where to adjust.
The back may well be too large for
Annie, so reduce back length by reducing width in the middle of the bra back.
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Reducing back band
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What else can we fix? Go to the next fitting lesson,
Class 2, Part 2!
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