Bra-making Class 2, Part 2, By Pauline from Australia
Dealing With Common Fitting Problems
If your ''cup runneth over'' on the upper cup, it's an easy alteration here. Extend the top (neckline) of the upper bra pattern and the center pattern piece as well. In this picture, the heavy blue line shows the new neckline above the old neckline.
Bra Band Too Loose. Take off hook and eye tape, shorten back piece, then sew hook and eye tape back on. Remember to adjust pattern for next time.
When Your Straps Fall Down. Move the straps at the back closer to the midline. The shape of the straps will look more like a "V." Also, wider straps can help prevent sliding (good quality elastic, girls).
Bra Back Rides Up. This is usually caused by heavy breasts. Re-draw the back pattern piece, tapering from the side seam, and angle the back down (not too much). You will need more hook and eyes to do it up, as it is now wider.
Uneven Sized Breasts. I start off with a bra with both cups the same, fitting the larger breast, then place 2-3 darts in the smaller cup until fullness taken out. I redraw the pattern and mark for future reference as Left Side or Right Side. When making dart, taper from upper cup through to the lower cup, over center front seam.
Puckered Nipple Area. When the bra fits everywhere else, shave a little off the pattern through the curve where the nipple area is. Do both upper and lower cups the same amount. Taper the adjustment to the sides, but not too much now. Also this can be a construction problem, if you stretch the seam too much when you sew it. Remember to take the curve evenly and don't stretch as you sew.
Are you well-endowed? Go to the next page, Class 2, Part 3...