Bra-making Class 2, Part 5, By Pauline from Australia

this page in progress - we hope it helps you

Start	Class 1:	Part 1	Class 2:	Part 1	Class 3:	Part 1
Find Your Size	Using a	Part 2	Fitting	Part 2	Copying one	Part 2
Pattern List	pattern	Part 3	adjustments	Part 3	that fits	Part 3
Supplies		Part 4		Part 4	Contact the instructor	Part 4
Powernet		Part 5		Part 5	Contact the instructor	Examples

Is the "T" piece too small?

A reader asks:

I have a fitting question about bras. I can get the cup to fit, but the front band/centerpiece is too closely spaced for my shape, so I feel like everything is being pulled to the front and squashed together. Is there something I can do for this?

It sounds like the T piece is too narrow for you. We all have different shapes, so a pattern is not going to fit all women, just as one bra style does not suit all women. Here are some suggestions for you.

Try another pattern if you are using a commercial one, as the pattern may not be right for your shape.

Do you have an old bra that fits comfortably, has the breasts sitting where they should be? Remember that the breasts do need to be forward, not under the arms at the sides. Measure the "T" piece in this bra, the width from cup to cup.

Take your T piece pattern piece & cut it up the center front, place the 2 pieces on your pattern drafting paper, with the measured distance apart & redraw your pattern piece with the extra width added. It is not going to be a lot- 1/4" is a lot in bra making. You may have to try this a couple of times until you are happy with the extra width in the front & your breasts sit where you are comfortable & they remain forward. Do not add so much that your breasts fall back to your sides. If you have bigger breasts the tendency is to bring them forward so they don't sag behind your arm pits.

Whatever you added to the center front is going to have to come off the 2 back pieces. Halve whatever you added. If you added 1/4" then that is 1/8" & take that out of the back pieces evenly- to do it correctly, cut the back pattern piece in half vertically trim the section out & redraw your pattern piece. If you take it from where it joins the cup you may find that it does not fit together correctly as this end of the pattern piece is quite often shaped & you will be changing the shape by taking out the extra here.

If you do not have a bra that fits well, then make the same alterations on your pattern pieces,remembering to add only very small amounts at a time.

Wait! Do you want to copy an old favorite? Go to the next session, Class 3, Part 1!