Bra-making Class 3, Part 3, By Pauline from Australia

Pam asks: I am trying to copy two bras with front close and a light fiberfill lining. Most parts I have figured out, but I have two questions:

Question 1: How do I attach elastic to the fabric?

Answer 1: Elastic is sewn on with a wide triple zigzag. I widen mine to width of elastic or as wide as it will go on really wide elastic and drop the stitch length a little so it gives a good stretch. Test to see what works best. To put on elastic, you align the straight edge of the elastic to the cut edge of the bra on the ride side. The scallops of the elastic are into the body of the bra, and the flock (soft) side of the elastic is uppermost. Using a small zigzag, stitch elastic close to the scalloped edge but don't stitch over the scallops (about 1x1 zigzag). Turn the elastic to wrong side of bra, with the scallops showing along the turned edge of bra. From the WRONG side of bra, using triple zigzag, stitch elastic down making sure stitching goes to straight edge of elastic, If elastic is really wide, you only ever stitch to the left hand side as the width of the stitch can't be made wide enough. Your elastic appears to be fairly narrow.

The bra shown in this picture appears to have the extra layer inside for support across the bottom, as discussed in Class 2 Part 3.

Answer 2: Seam A is flatlocked on a serger, so if you do not have one of these, put a seam allowance on the pattern where this seam is. This will be done the same as seam B, but it won't be as flat or as smooth as on the RTW bra.

If you have a serger, set your machine for a 2- or 3-thread flatlock. Use woolly nylon, and serge the seams together with a short, narrow stitch. Pull apart so seam sits flat.

For seam B, place right sides together, and seam with a straight stitch, taking the allowance you used for in pattern. This seam gets folded to the BACK or AWAY from the cups. Now we have the choice of a couple of ways to do the next step. In either case, you do not have to fold the edge under or finish the edges off as the fabric does not fray.

If I'm adding boning to the side here (some bras have a light plastic strip in here for support) I leave both seam allowances the same width and sew down, from the right side, the distance from the needle to the edge of the presser foot from the seam line. Turn and trim. Insert boning.

If boning will not be used, trim the under seam to 1/8", fold the top seam over it to reduce the bulk, and stitch as described before.

More bra-making questions Answered Here.