Altering Purchased Sweatshirts and Sweaters

** Updated 11/24/07 **

Here's how I adjust sweaters and sweatshirts to fit me. Please read and understand these directions before you start. I apologize for not including any pictures or drawings at this time. These instructions are for the intermediate to advanced sewist.

I am short with a big backside. I have to buy sweatshirts and sweaters in sizes larger than most people would believe. To shorten the sleeves the way that I do, the garment must be a set-in sleeve style - raglan sleeves would not work in almost all cases. If you want to shorten the bodice, you can not expect to leave both the hem and the neck finish intact; you must sacrifice one or the other.

I use a favorite Stretch&Sew knit top pattern (#130) which I have traced to allow for my wide hips, narrow shoulders, and short arms. I prefer Stretch&Sew patterns because they start with the shoulder width, which improves the fit greatly. All adjustments should be made on the pattern so that no adjustments will be required while cutting, making the entire process much simpler. Keep in mind that I use a pattern with 1/4-inch seams. TEST this pattern before using it on an expensive garment. Find a similar garment with similar fabric at the thrift store - if it doesn't work out, you can donate it back.

I recommend cutting with a rotary cutter and mat because I find it does not distort the shape of the garment when cutting out. The looser the weave (or knit) of the garment, the more important this is. Undo the stitches of the armhole seam to separate the sleeves from the bodice. Turn the sleeves and the bodice inside-out. Steam press the sleeves lightly so that the sleeve seams are flattened and there is a light crease on the fold opposite the seam. Steam press the bodice lightly so that the shoulder seams and the side seams are flattened.

To Shorten the Sleeves:

Fold up the hem allowance of the sleeve pattern piece and pin or tape it in place. Lay the sleeve pattern piece over the sleeve so that the long straight part of the pattern piece is along the fold of the fabric, and the hem edge of the pattern piece meets the finished sleeve hem edge. Use the rotary cutter to cut the sleeve cap shape, ignoring the notch.

It's easiest to leave the straight underarm sleeve seam as is, especially the first time you try this. If you do cut the underarm sleeve seam, you must stitch it together before continuing.

To Take in the Shoulders:

With the garment bodice front over the bodice back, mark the center front of the bodice with one pin at the neck and one pin at the hem. Lay the back bodice pattern piece over the left side of the bodice. Align the shoulder notch of the pattern with the garment shoulder seam, and the pattern center front fold line with the pins at the neck and the hem of the garment. If the pattern piece goes beyond the side seam of the garment, the garment is too small.

If the point at the bottom of the pattern piece armhole does not reach the side seam of the garment, hold the outer shoulder point of the pattern piece in place on the garment and pivot the pattern until that point meets the side seam of the garment.

Cut the armhole out with the rotary cutter.

If the pattern piece stops at the armhole instead of the side seam, then after you cut out the armhole, cut the side seam from the the point at the bottom of the armhole to a point about an inch above the garment hem.

Do the same for the right side of the bodice.

To Shorten the Bodice from the top:

To shorten from the top to leave the hem intact, I can tell you how to cut it out and reassemble it, but recreating a neck finish is not covered here.

Unstitch the shoulder seams. Refold the bodice so that the side seams are aligned and the center front and center back each forms a fold. Mark the finished hem line on the pattern pieces. Lay the back bodice pattern piece over the back of the bodice with the pattern fold line at the center back fold and the finished hem mark at the hem of the garment. Lay the front bodice pattern piece over the front of the bodice with the pattern fold line at the center front fold and the finished hem mark at the hem of the garment. With the rotary cutter, cut the neck, armhole, and side seams of the garment following the pattern pieces.

Assembling the Garment:

All seams are to be sewn using long, narrow zigzag stitches.

If the shoulder or side seams were recut, stitch them together now.

Turn the sleeve right side out, reach up through the bodice, and pull the sleeve through the armhole into the garment. First match and pin the fold of the sleeve to the top of the armhole, then match and pin the underarm seams. Pin the rest of the way around the armhole, easing the excess sleeve into the armhole only at the top as necessary. Stitch the sleeve onto the garment. Do this for both sleeves.

To Shorten the Bodice from the bottom:

If you will be keeping the neck treatment intact, cut the garment across the hem. Fold and stitch a new hem.